Just before the start of the main season, the two of us, guides Rudi and Anej, took a day off and spent it doing something we both love – climbing in the mountains.
The day started early. Our alarm went off at 5:30 a.m. because we wanted to make the most of the peaceful morning and avoid the afternoon thunderstorms. By 7:00 a.m. we had already begun the hike toward the north face of Mt. Ojstrica. The approach passed quickly, and at the mountain hut at Klemenča Jama we refilled our bottles from the spring before continuing. Just before 9:00 a.m. we reached the start of the 500-meter-long memorial route dedicated to Ivo Rey, better known as Zmaj (“The Dragon”). Before setting off, we took a few minutes to study the wall and organize our gear. We left one backpack at the base of the route since we wouldn’t need it during the climb. We soloed the first 200 meters of easier terrain up to the first crux, graded V+. There we tied into the rope and the real climbing began.
For me, this was my first multi-pitch route of this length, so I was excited from the very beginning. This kind of climbing is something special—every pitch brings a new challenge and an incredible view down into the valley below. Rudi led the entire route, placing pitons, setting protection, and building belay anchors. I climbed second, cleaning the gear and enjoying every moment of the experience.
The first section of the route was enjoyable and passed quickly. Then came the harder pitches, graded 6+ and 7-. Those definitely demanded my full attention. A few moves gave me quite a bit of trouble, but with persistence and a little encouragement, I managed to climb through even the hardest sections.
Just when we were nearing the top and only a few dozen meters remained, I was convinced the hardest part was behind us. But one final surprise was waiting for me. A nut had become firmly wedged in a crack. I spent nearly ten minutes trying to free it—pulling, wiggling, and trying every trick I could think of—but nothing worked. Eventually, I had to admit defeat, and Rudi lowered himself down the rope to help. I remember thinking to myself, If he gets it out immediately, I’m going to be so annoyed. Sure enough, with just a few experienced movements, he had it out in about five seconds. I couldn’t believe it!
Shortly afterward, we stood on top of the wall. The feeling of successfully climbing a 500-meter route was incredible. It was already 3:00 p.m., so we only paused briefly to enjoy the view because the sky was quickly filling with clouds. It had already been drizzling lightly during the climb, and now it looked like heavier rain was on the way. We didn’t waste any time and began our descent via the Kopinšek Route. At the base of the wall we enjoyed a quick run down the scree slope to our backpack, where we could finally take off our harnesses and pack away the climbing gear.
We returned along the same trail, passing Klemenča Jama once again before reaching the Dom Planincev in Logarska Valley. From there we drove back to Camp Menina and treated ourselves to an excellent burger. It was a great change of pace—during the summer we spend most of our time working as whitewater rescue guides on the river, so it was nice to enjoy a day on dry rock for a change.
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